There is a time of year when l’Ametlla de Mar seems to breathe differently. Summer slowly begins to say goodbye, the days grow shorter, the beaches regain their calm, and that intense Mediterranean of the months of July and August gives way to a more peaceful sea.

Autumn has arrived.

But here, right by the Mediterranean, autumn does not always resemble that image of dry leaves, coats and grey days that we often associate with this season. In l’Ametlla de Mar, autumn still has a lot of blue.

The same sea, a different way of experiencing it

The sun is no longer as hot as it was a few weeks ago, and walking by the sea becomes once again one of those small pleasures that require very little planning. All you need is comfortable footwear and to start walking.

The coastal path follows the coast of l’Ametlla de Mar among pine trees, rocks and coves. At every bend, a different perspective of the Mediterranean appears. Sometimes the path comes so close to the sea that we can almost hear the foam; at other times, it climbs slightly and gives us an open panorama of the coast.

Cala Vidre, Cala Forn, Xelín, l’Estany Tort, Calafató... Places that during the summer are synonymous with swimming and beach days now become small stops along the way. Places to sit for a few minutes, look out at the horizon, listen to the sea and, why not, go for a swim.

The coves are quieter, and the water is still at a pleasant temperature, displaying that range of blues and crystal-clear waters so characteristic of the coast of l’Ametlla de Mar. Beneath the surface, the seagrass meadows form part of this Mediterranean landscape, while on land the pine trees reach practically down to the rocks.

The Mediterranean is still there. Only the way we look at it has changed.

A village that continues to look out to sea

In the town centre, autumn can also be felt. In the morning, the fishing boats have already been out at sea for hours and, at the port, the nets, the boats and the everyday activity are a reminder that l’Ametlla de Mar is a town that has grown looking out towards the Mediterranean.

Walking around the port, along the seafront or getting lost in the streets of the old town allows you to discover this seafaring identity without rushing.

As afternoon arrives, the light fades and the façades, boats and sea take on different hues. It is a good time to make your way to one of the town’s viewpoints or simply find a spot facing the Mediterranean and let time pass.

Because here, there are days when the best plan is, precisely, not to have one.

Walking until the sun goes down

Autumn is an especially inviting season to discover the area on foot. We can follow the GR-92 north or south, walk among coves and cliffs, or reach one of the most emblematic spots along the coast, the Castle of Sant Jordi d’Alfama.

As the sun begins to set, the castle’s stone, the pine trees and the Mediterranean create one of those landscapes that explain why this coast deserves to be discovered outside the summer season as well.

The viewpoints scattered along the coastline, the port or any elevated spot along the Camí de Ronda can also become privileged places to watch how the light changes.

Autumn has this virtue: it teaches us to look again.

And after walking, the table.

Perhaps we have spent the morning walking along the Camí de Ronda. Perhaps we have been sailing, cycling or simply strolling through the village. Either way, there comes a moment when autumn also begins to be enjoyed sitting at the table.

And in l’Ametlla de Mar, talking about the table means talking about the sea once again.

Seafood cuisine is part of the town’s identity, and autumn brings us one of the most eagerly awaited gastronomic events of the year, the Fish Market and Arrossejat Gastronomic Weeks, which this year will take place from 9 to 18 October.

During these days, the participating restaurants will make fish from our coast the star of specially designed menus aimed at discovering local produce and a cuisine closely linked to the fishing tradition of l’Ametlla de Mar.

And among all these flavours, there is one dish that, like few others, tells the story of the Cala’s seafaring origins: arrossejat. Born aboard the fishermen’s boats, it is one of those recipes that has been passed down from generation to generation until becoming one of the great symbols of local gastronomy.

The central event of the gastronomic weeks will take place on the afternoon of 17 October, when l’Ametlla de Mar will celebrate the 40th edition of the Diada de l’Arrossejat, an event that brings this seafaring tradition into the streets and invites visitors to discover it in a festive and popular atmosphere.

Because in l’Ametlla de Mar, the landscape is also discovered through the palate.